Streaky Bay - the male perspective

Streaky Bay

After an early morning run, we left Wudinna around 10am. On the road I was giving my usual caravan salute (which I have refined to a lifting of the 4 fingers of the left hand from the steering wheel) to passing fellow caravaners. However, I noticed in this region, that the cars, buses, trucks and pedestrians  would acknowledge you with a wave or verbally, while we were driving or running or walking in town. It is really quite tiring acknowledging everyone. What is wrong with these people!!

We arrived in Streaky Bay about midday , hit the visitors information centre and settled into the caravan park right on the bay for a couple of nights.  I have to say we are becoming a well oiled machine in setting up the van. The kids are a great help and I backed the van into a pretty confined spot with only 2 attempts.

After lunch, we strolled around the headland into town to check it out. Fiona needed a coffee. Neil and Valdis from Sydney Trains, I checked out the local golf club for you. I was looking at what I thought was a bunker only to discover it was the green. The putting green was made of white sand, but this is better than Peterborough where the green was black sand. I hope the annual member’s fees are appropriately priced. The kids had a ride at the skate park and we then headed back for a siesta.

Late afternoon I we were talking with our new best friends and neighbours John and Moira from Bunbury WA and they were filling us in on the best seafood up and down the peninsula. Again we are always meeting and talking to people about where they have been or headed, what they are doing or where the good spots are etc  whether next to you at a site, in the camp kitchen, on the beach or in town.

The main beach was north facing and at low tide.  So Georgia, Andrew and I headed out in our cossies with a tennis ball. We went out several hundred metres past the sandbars into blood warm water about a foot deep and in their own words had the “best fun”. I must admit it was nice just lazing in the bay that far out or madly chasing after a tennis ball. It was a lovely view back to the beach and I won the handicapped sprint back to shore with a late surge past a determined Georgia, who tried to tackle me. A steward’s inquiry would have taken a dim view of her actions.  She is very competitive. I wonder where she gets that from. Andrew languished behind in third/last place.

After dinner we headed into town and walked out on the jetty to a glorious sunset.

The next morning we were busy with the kids doing schoolwork and washing some clothes. After lunch we went for a couple of tourist drives around the headlands that were interesting. The most eye catching was “The Granites” a series of coastal granite rock formations, rock pools and we saw a group of porpoises frolicking right off the granite boulders. Returning home it was time for another go of water football past the sandbars , dinner and a quiet night.

Final assessment of Streaky Bay - it was a battle of aesthetics. It is a pretty but little seaside town that had plenty to offer itself and its impressive surrounding headlands. However, it pales in comparison when coming up against the natural beauty of the females of the Burton caravaning expedition. 

Next stop, heading south to Elliston

Streaky Bay

We have passed by about 2000 hectares of wheat fields on the journey from Wudinna. It’s harvest time and the locals report a “pretty good” yield this year.  Apparently they have not had any rain to speak of since July.

Coming into Streaky bay, known for its fishing and oysters, I was surprised to see more wheat fields and silos. Evenso, Streaky bay does have a nice coastal feel . We have been travelling inland since we left Sydney and, as pleasant as that is, I admit to being a girl for the coast. Again, there is a lot of history, going back to some Dutch dude who first spotted the area in the 1600’s, and more recently Mathew Flinders (and his cat?) aboard the Investigator.

The region is considered part of the Great Australian Bight although no stunning coastal cliffs that one normally associates with the bight. Nevertheless, it is pretty and is squarely set in the Southern Ocean. And there is a lot of granite around. Just want to pick up these big rocks and make a kitchen bench out of them.

We found our way to the only caravan park in town and settled in for two nights.  It is a lot busier than we are accustomed to, noticing a few more families with children.  Again, we managed to endear ourselves with a few grey nomads who adopted the children as surrogate grandchildren and assured us they would keep an “eye on yer van” while we were out exploring.

And explore we did.  Bauer Point and Point Speed, being two headlands just south of Streaky bay provided us with great coastal views, rock pools to muck about in but no glimpse of the Peregrine Falcon or the Australian sea lions which are supposed to call this neck of the woods home.  We did see a pod of dolphins near the rock pools and a shingle back lizard. The lizard was dead, but in pretty good nick.

In town, we inspected the skate park and the golf course. Well I didn't, I just wanted a coffee and went along on the pretense, making sure we found a café on the way.  At dusk we walked the long jetty out into the bay for some lovely photos and an up close inspection of a fishing trawler. Alas the fishermen were not as friendly as the grey nomads.

I can see why the nomads are out here. It is a great lifestyle.  However I do miss a few creature comforts,  I need a facial and a wax, give anything for a pedi and my hair is out of control. It has been so dry and despite moisturising, everything is cracking up. No one else seems to care or notice, so I am learning not to also.  Even getting used to so-so coffee…. What next ?!?!?!

We pull up stumps in the morning and head down the western coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

Port Augusta/Wudinna

Pandurra Station/Wudinna

We headed out from the Flinders Ranges and arrived in Quorn mid-morning for morning tea. A quiet but pretty town. The ladies at the information centre were very helpful.  We moved on to Port Augusta and the Spencer Gulf. We stopped for supplies as this would be the last large town we would see in a while. I must say the left hand sweep out of Port Augusta onto the Eyre Highway heading for Perth WA was impressive. We got a glimpse of how massive this land is as we headed west through the Baxter Ranges to our farm stay stop at Pandurra Station about 40km west of Port Augusta. The farm was 400 square miles that had been partially converted to a caravan park.  It was very quiet but had all the amenities. We really enjoyed the stay.

The next morning we continued heading west towards the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula. We passed Iron Nob which had a massive iron ore pitt operated by BHP.

We stopped at Kimba. A small town claiming to be the halfway point from east to west of Australia (not sure about that). Also Kimba is the home of the giant Galah, which looked like it had seen better days. I wanted a photo of myself with the Galah but  Fiona vetoed the idea. She reckoned the home of the giant Galah was Beecroft NSW. I am sorry I did not get the shot, it would have been funny.

We headed for Wudinna, a farming town that was in the middle of the harvest period, which is the granite capital of Australia. We decided to stay for the night.  After some schoolwork for the kids, it was time for a swim and dinner. As usual, you just seem to meet and talk to people in the caravan parks. One couple invited the Georgia and Andrew to come and see their baby cattle dog they had picked up from Perth. They had a big caravan with all the extras. They live in Echuca Victoria 9 months of the year and in the winter months  take the caravan to Broome WA and spend the winter there.  Apparently a whole herd of them go up there every year at that time. They continue to travel around everywhere. What a life!

We then went out to Mt Wudinna, the second largest monolith (presumably behind Ayers Rock) in Australia. It was this giant granite outcrop that really did remind me of Ayers Rock when you stood on top of it. The vastness of the wheat paddocks and of the land is staggering out here, photos cannot capture it.

All in all, two great little stops. Next , Streaky Bay on the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

Flinders Ranges

Flinders Ranges

We left Peterborough and headed for Hawker on the RM Williams Way and Outback Highway. After picking up a few supplies in Hawker we headed for Rawnlsey Station caravan park, situated 20km from the Wilpena Pound (tourist centre for the Flinders Ranges). The scenery was very impressive.  The mountain formations were stunning, pre-historic, red and layered. Temperature was about 41c.

A funny moment occurred at Fiona’s expense. The caravan park is 4km off the highway on dirt road. As we went out to look at Wilpena Pound, on the dirt road out to the highway we saw an Emu with half a dozen chicks . Fiona, in a lather of excitement, stopped the car and said this was something we may never see again and commanded us to take photos immediately of this “once in a lifetime moment”. We obeyed. 200 metres down the dirt road, guess what, another Emu family. Guess what, another 100 metres down the road another family. By the time we got to the highway, we saw about 30-40 of them. Over the next 48 hours after we had nearly run one over, chasing one down the highway for 100 metres and generally seen about 1000 of them, Fiona’s attitude changed to “will you silly birds get out of the way”.  When someone said "Emu" it barely raised a look. Of course the once in a lifetime Emu account has now entered family folklore.

The stars were pretty impressive that night.

The next day I went for a dawn run that was memorable. Magnificent mountain scenery where I felt like the only person in the world such was the quiet. Then I would realise there were roos all around me when they moved, they blended in so effectively to the scrub. It would be great to wake up to that early morning run each day. We headed out at 36c to enter the national park and established our first bush camp. After setting up as the only people in the camp (except for the roo in the toilets taking cover from the heat), we spent the day driving through all the recommended gorges and tourist drives etc. We then settled back in camp all alone, which was a bit creepy. It was a long hot day but what we saw was impressive.

The next day we headed back to Wilpena Pound and did some bushwalking to various lookouts. Again impressive but the weather was mixed. Fortunately we finished the walks because the weather really closed in. It teemed and the wind howled all afternoon so we bunkered in at our camp. Late in the day another caravan came into our campsite. This made us all happy.

We were advised to visit Stokes Hill for an excellent sunset. Fortunately the weather cleared and we were treated to a magnificent view. It was a great way to finish at Flinders. Coming home (really all day in the national park) there were hundreds of roos and emus. You could not drive fast at all. We had a number of close shaves. I was quite nervous driving. Roos must be the most stupid of animals. Even when they see you, you do not know which way they will go, they will dart left , right , on the road or off the road. Anyway apart from roos and emus, we seem to run into lots of Germans. In fact one guy who took our picture on top of the Wangara lookout (a major walk we did) he said they were going to see the sunset at Stokes Hill as well. We did not see them but when we got back at dusk, we discovered it was him who had driven into our campsite. So we chatted like long lost friends.

My final assessment on the Flinders Ranges, wonderful wildlife, impressive landscape, but the south island of NZ betters it with room to spare.

Anyway, next stop probably Port Augusta SA.

Renmark/Peterborough

Renmark/Peterborough

Well we left Mildura and headed out on the Sturt highway. The best description is that it was a long straight open road with plenty of wheat and a few vineyards. After crossing into South Australia, we had to declare all fruit and vegetables. We did the right thing by declaring my precious strawberry jam which they let pass through. They opened up the van etc. However, as we left we discovered that Georgia had a dirty great big apple sitting on the back seat of the car. Not a very thorough inspection by the South Australians.

We arrived in Renmark around lunchtime. It is a pretty town on the banks of the Murray. Given that the towns would be getting progressively smaller to non-existent as we headed towards the Flinders rangers, we decided to stay for the night. We stayed at the beautifully positioned Big 4 caravan park right on the river and enjoyed their amenities for the rest of the day and evening.

The next morning we headed out on the Goyder highway which was again flat, long and straight. We stopped at the historic mining village of Burra for lunch.

We then headed north on the Barrier highway to Peterborough, a railway town and one of the last real towns before the Flinders Ranges. Of course we passed some more windfarms.

We will stay 2 nights and stock up on supplies for our journey north.

Wide open spaces here and quiet, we are starting to get out into the sticks. The main street shuts down after about 7pm.  We continue to meet interesting people at the caravan parks. At dinner we were talking to a Scottish couple from Sydney who are also headed for the Flinders Ranges,  a German couple who landed in Perth and were headed for Sydney for 4 months, a couple from Muswellbrook NSW who had been on the road for 5 months and a 70 year fellow from Perth driving and canoeing around the country with his “10 good years left in him”.

It was a scorcher today, about 36c but a dry heat. We had a quiet day doing domestics including library for the kids schooling, washing the sheets and clothes and stocking up on petrol, food and water with of course the obligatory swim.

Ready for the Flinders Ranges

As I sit here by the Murray in a very nice Big 4 caravan park in Renmark SA, I thought I would blog some observations in no particular order of importance of our first 2 weeks.

1.       I am very impressed that the country towns along the Murray have all retained major grasscourt tennis centres. Albury has a major centre, Corowa had a dozen or so grass courts, Deniliquin had a dozen and Mildura had about 30. Even so small towns we passed through had them. Perhaps the next Wimbledon champion from Australia will come from the Riverina because he was brought up on grass and knows how to volley, hit an approach shot and slice.

2.       We notice that all the planes going by are at a high altitude and leave a condensation trail

3.       It is amazing how many consecutive days you can wear the same shirt and shorts without any obvious negative side effects.

4.       There has been a lot of windy days but next to no rain. It has been glorious day after day

5.       The heat is a dry heat that plays havoc with your skin. You need moisturiser.

6.       The bathrooms in the caravan parks all have the radio playing. I have gotten used to it. In fact, I quite like Sunraysia FM. I started listening to it while jogging, even when there was a camping show on.

7.       While on the highways, when you pass a caravan driver coming in the opposite direction, you lift your index finger to each other as an acknowledgement of a fellow traveler. Sometimes you can raise 4 fingers off the wheel, but the index finger salute is the go. I have joined the club and have been accepted on the highways of Australia as a fellow caravaner.

8.       I am enjoying the simple pleasures like an early morning run by the Murray River which really can be spectacular. Fiona will say I enjoy that because it is free. By not so, these towns with their parklands make great use of the riverside and some of the scenery is magnificent.

9.       The happiest times I experience is when packed up and leaving a town for the next. The nervous times are coming into a town we intend to stay at and seeing what is in store for us.

10.   Generally the caravan parks are located perfectly and amenities are great. We take advantage of the pool and camp kitchens but many don’t. Late afternoon they are content to stay around their caravans with their bbqs etc. They are very self-reliant and well equipped.

11.   Late afternoon in the caravan parks are very relaxing and peaceful

12.   Andrew Burton has an extraordinary interest in grooming his hair. He is constantly brushing his hair, he brushes it before he goes to bed, if there is a puff of wind, way he goes again. Not sure what to make of that.

13.   We are still rookies but gradually getting better at the camping life. We are starting to get a rhythm in putting up and taking down the camper trailer after a few early hiccups.

14.   People are friendly at the caravan parks and willing to talk and share experiences and tips. They seem to realise everyone is part of the same adventure and want to help. I gain a lot of information striking up conversations at the camp kitchens of with next door neighbours.

15.   I am still not completely relaxed. Still anticipating or trying to avert any major disasters around the corner.

16.   Still working out the best sleeping arrangements on the van

Anyway, just a few random thoughts as we leave NSW and Victoria behind and begin the South Australia leg of the journey.

Mildura/Wentworth

Well we got a good tip from a Christian couple Peter and Val Saunders from Melbourne who were our neighbours at Swan Hill that the place to stay in Mildura was actually on the NSW  side of the Murray in Buronga. So we took their advice and they were correct.  It was an excellent caravan park in a lovely location on the banks of the Murray with lots of amenities. We caught up with them again at Buronga caravan park. We stayed 4 nights in Mildura, it felt like we dwelt in the land. Tell Alex A from Sydney Trains that Mildura is indeed a city and not a town (he will understand).

My impression of Mildura is that it is a very nice place. It has the beautiful Murray River, lovely parklands and sporting facilities along the river and people are active running, cycling, playing tennis etc, leading an outdoors lifestyle. Mildura has 30 lovely lawn tennis courts right by the river and parklands. It was the perfect surroundings for playing tennis and people were. I strongly approved. Where have the grass court tennis players gone?!!!!!!

The first afternoon we headed for the visitors  information centre as has been our practice. We learned all about the Chaffey brothers and Alfred Deakin in establishing Mildura.

The next day was a rest day. I took the kids to the library to do some schoolwork. It was a blazing hot day so it was a late afternoon swim, and a visit to the park at twilight for the kids to play.

Day three was another hot day. We headed down to the Murray River lock no. 11 to watch the paddle steamer Ruby go through to Wentworth. It was very interesting and it took about 20 minutes. The water level was several metres different in height each side of the lock.

Then it was off to have a look around the central mall in town and then to a gem factory that unusually had an outdoor hedged maze attached. Fortunately my well-honed directional instincts born in the jungles of Borneo got us through. After a late afternoon swim and watching a skiing competition on the Murray,  it was off to the Mildura RSL. I put on $3 trying Paul Murphy’s keno numbers: result – useless. Home for a quiet night.

Today we visited our friends at the Mildura Baptist Church and had a lovely time. After this we headed off to Wentworth about 30 kms away where the Murray and Darling Rivers converge.  I explained to the kids that this was a significant geographical event in our trip. I told them as a symbolic gesture to mark the occasion,  I planned to fill a cup from the Murray and another cup from the Darling and pour the water out together to signify “the confluence “ of Australia’s two mightiest rivers. The children were besides themselves in anticipation and excitement.

Then we visited the Perry sand-hills which were quite impressive.

 

All in all, a lovely stay in Mildura but it was time to move on to South Australia.

Next  stop Renmark SA.