Naracoorte - Robe

Greetings from Robe SA. It isn't famous for Robes but it is a very nice town by the sea.
Before I get started on Robe, better catch up on the past two days. We were planning to head to Robe directly from Coorong National Park but the weather closed in. Our thinking was that we could visit Naracoorte as its main attraction was underground and return to the coast a day or so later when the weather lifted. On the way we passed through Kingston. It has a big lobster - a bigger than expected lobster. When the lobster designer sent the plans to the artist/constructionist, the measurements were interpreted incorrectly. The original plans were in feet and the artist mistook them for metres. This crustacean is a whopper!

Naracoorte is a charming farming community on the main highway from Adelaide to Mt Gambier. It is only 20kms west of the Victorian border and a similar distance north of the Coonawarra wine region.  In the mid 1800's a fellow discovered these limestone caves while looking for bat guano. There wasn't too many bats, but the caves had interesting  limestone formations that he felt might attract visitors. In all honesty, Jenolan caves are far more spectacular but nevertheless, the caves were open to the public on and off for over 100 years and were gazetted as a national park in 1917. It wasn't until the early 1990's that a couple of cavers decided to explore a very small opening at the back of one of the caves. The opening was about 30cm by 15cm. Why anyone should decide to push through is beyond me, however they did. Beyond the opening was a further cave with one of the richest deposits of fauna fossils ever discovered in Australia. One of the cavers happened to be a Paleo and immediately recognised the significance of their find. Several species of extinct mega fauna have been identified and research continues to find more. Apparently a very long time ago the cave had a smallish opening on the ground above and animals would fall into the hole, not be able to get out and eventually die. This happened for a few thousand years and left a massive pile of bones for which Paleos are over the moon about. 
We visited three different caves but Victoria fossil cave was the best. It looked like something Indiana Jones would muck about in.

We also visited the bat caves. Or rather, we sat near the opening of the bat cave waiting for them to swirl out just like in the Indiana Jones movies. Unfortunately it was nowhere near as spectacular but one bat did nearly smack into Rod. The good news is that two geeky types turned up to record the bat numbers. They had a laptop, a camera (which they proudly told us NASA once used to track missiles?) and a program that counted the bat numbers. They kindly filled us in on lots of good information. Apparently an American fulbright scholar turned up a few years back and set up a monitoring program, published a few papers and then left the local to get on with it. Loving those geeky bat counting girls. 

We stayed at the Naracoorte showgrounds. When not being used for agricultural displays, the showgrounds are open for budget travellers to camp. At least there are flush toilets and hot showers.
It proved a very relaxing spot and instead of falling asleep to the sound of waves or wind, we drifted off to the lowing of cattle. The customary game of cricket was played out under a magnificent sunset.  That evening, Rod and I had a cup of tea sitting under a spectacular night sky. Full moon with clouds drifting by and dazzling stars. 

Sunday found us at the local Presbyterian church. They call Adelaide the city of churches, but the whole state is full of these huge, historic stone buildings. We were welcomed and stayed for a lovely cup of tea afterwards. Mercifully, we were not confused with a vagrant family. 

The weather cleared as expected and we turned west towards the coast once more. Robe is a quaint seaside place and its most significant feature is the local coffee roaster. Well, far as I am concerned. We found Mahalia coffee in a back street and enjoyed a fine brew. No long drop award today.

 Later we explored the coastline. It is rocky and hazardous but quite interesting - starting to look a bit Great Ocean Road-ish. The water is almost a fluorescent blue-green. The bay Robe is nestled on is quite shallow with a sandy/limestone floor giving the water a lovely translucence. I wish I had a filter on the camera lens to pick it up - the pictures do not do it justice. As with most of the SA coast, ships have dashed themselves to pieces here also. There is a memorial to ships and one for fisherman lost at sea with far too many names upon them. I was afraid to go near the water!

 We also needed to do a few running repairs. Six weeks on the road has seen some small equipment failures but a trip to the hardware and the local marine/camping workshop saw us shipshape once more. I must publicly thank the boys from Robe Auto Marine. Instead of selling me some lubricant for the towball and jockey wheel, the young apprentice simply came out with a gob of grease on his forefinger and smeared it over the towball. When I got back to the park, I wiped off the excess and smeared it on the jockey wheel. Done.
We have noticed a change in the clientele at the van parks. The nomads are starting to drift home for Christmas and a few more families getting an early start on the holidays are appearing. It will get very busy in Victoria in the next week or two and we will have to plan more carefully, staying clear of the popular beachside spots. 

Next stop is Mt Gambier and then we say goodbye to SA and tackle the Great Ocean Road before the Victorians break for school holidays.

Coorong National Park

Today, I feel like chatting about the local produce on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Despite the limited facilities and space in the van, we are able to treat ourselves to a few culinary gems. Coffin bay has oysters (and they are very nice) and everyone knows about the wine, but I hunted out two treats in Goolwa that are worth mentioning.

Firstly Alexandrina Cheese company, based not far from the McLaren district at a place called Mt Jagged. I didn’t go for the blue (would have loved to, but not a good idea in a confined space) so bought some Gouda.  Yummo. The vendor told me the secret was in the grass fed, happy, fat Jersey cows. If you see it, buy it. I could have also bought fresh Jersey cow milk, but at $5.20 for 2 litres, maybe another time.

My second find was a farm we passed at Langhorne Creek on the way to Coorong National Park called Newmans.  They grow, amongst other things, horseradish. I have had various horseradish dips and spreads in the past, but Newmans is in a different leauge. It turns a humble BBQ sausage or beef pattie into an experience of biblical proportions.

Enough about food – the big news is that Rod is officially a CPA. He got the results of his last exam today and is most relieved. Six years in the making.

The other news is that I have successfully enrolled Georgia at Cheltenham Girls. It would appear that being offered a place and accepting it is only the start.  The enrolment officer and I have become close personal friends over the course of the past few weeks and with the help of several emails, a few phone calls, the services of Glenelg Library and two credit cards, I believe we are sorted.

I suppose I am expected to  report on our activities today, so better get to it. Rod likes to keep the blog in order and on task  – even if that task is spin bowling.

We finished up our time in Victor Harbor and never did find out why it is spelt without the “u” in harbor. Another overcast day that threated to delay departure however the clouds held on long enough for us to shower, have breakfast and get underway. We are becoming quite professional in our setup/packup drill; can do it from start to hitch in about 20 min providing everyone does what I tell them to.  

We backtracked to Goolwa and then turned north to make a wide arc around Lake Alexandrina. The lake is at the end of the Murray River system, close to the Southern Ocean. Early last century, they erected a number of barrages to stop the ocean tiding into the lake with the hope that the salinity would drop and the lake would prove a useable water source for the district and agriculture. It worked, but the lake now appears a strange brown colour.  And there are still a number of small salt lakes dotted about.   After seeing several of these, we managed to walk on one with a slight pink hue, not uncommon. The kids feigned boredom at first but then decided it was fun to run about on a salt lake and lick bits of it. Eat your heart out Himalayan pink rock salt.

We crossed the Murray one last time on a punt at a little town called Wellington and then headed south to the ocean once more.

This stretch of coastline is interesting – long, straight and separated from the mainland by a seam of water running for about 140 kilometres called Lake Coorong.  You can navigate across to the surf at certain times of the year when parts of the lake evaporate, but the sealed road tracks along the inland side.  The landscape is flat and low. The stunted trees and bushes  look exhausted from being beaten about by the wind and seem thankful just to hang on to the rocky soil. 

The towns are on the main highway, inland from the coast, so the only sign of life was the occasional general store at the junction of a dirt crossroad. We saw a sign to Jacks Point, an important Pelican rookery, so we ventured off the blacktop for a little impromptu exploration. Unfortunately the Pelicans were in absentia.  In fact, I can scarcely recall seeing that few pelicans around a seaside area.

Speaking of sealed roads, the Subaru has done itself proud on dirt. We have negotiated a handful of tricky spots and travelled many unsealed kilometres. Rod doesn’t want to wash the car because it has “credibility” now.   I have reminded Rod that I, along with my siblings, learned to drive on unsealed roads and thus am not impressed with a dusty car.

So, tonight we find ourselves camped at 42 mile crossing in Coorong National park along with two neighbours. The first, a big van containing two grey nomads and the other, a late model Camry full of backpackers with two cub tents and not much else. I think they are German.  It is my observation that the bigger the rig (nomad vernacular for “caravan”) the fewer the number of people in it. At some parks, we see these behemoths pull up and two pygmies and a Chihuahua step out. They must shake their head when they see the four of us in the Jayco.

It’s raining lightly and the sound on the canvas is strangely comforting. The smell of the gas burner as it heats up the kettle for a cup of tea and to wash the dishes is familiar and almost homely.  Due to the constant winds, I have jerry rigged  guy ropes to the van roof racks. I am not confident that my bush engineering does anything to stop our roof being blown sideways, but I sleep better nonetheless. We are on battery power, so the lights are dimmer and we won’t shower tonight.  We have neither mobile phone reception nor running water.  But it’s all OK. Think I turned a corner in the past 48 hours and it is starting to feel like home wherever we are.

Tomorrow, Lord willing, home will be in Robe.  Apparently there is a coffee roaster in town. Mmmmmm 

Finally got a picture of a shingleback!

Victor Harbor

Well we headed out from Goolga around 9.30am and were in Victor Harbor before 10am. Our first impression of Victor Harbor was a good one as we chanced upon a scenic lookout from the south of the town. The scenery in town was just as pretty.

We booked into a lovely caravan park that was really a retreat/camp owned by the Uniting Church. It had a really nice feel about it, so we stayed.

After lunch we headed into the visitors information centre and then had a look around town.

The girls went shopping and then we went for the scenic drive along the north side of town to the bottom of The Bluff. The scenery and coastline was spectacular.

We then headed home for a some cricket, basketball and dinner before calling it a night.

The next day was a little cloudy and windy. I have to say one of the things I will remember from the Australian Bight is how windy it was along all the coast. We spent the morning at the South Australian Whale Centre (I did not become a member) which was very interesting.

the guys watching a 3d whale movie or is Fiona's flurescent silver sunnies a new fashionable look

Fiona and Andrew having a close shave with a great white

After lunch we rode the tramway which is a carriage pulled by a clydesdale horse from the mainland out to Granite Island (South Australians love their Granite). We then explored the island and again the views were impressive, and then got the tramway back which was a lot of fun.

One of these two needs a little grooming and its not Karney the horse

Some granite men on Granite Island

Andrew enjoying the ride back to the mainland

After a rest back at camp, Andrew and I headed out along the coastal road to The Bluff in order to climb it. It is a mountain looking over Encounter Bay. The whaling boats would send spotters on top of the mountain to watch for whales. When they saw one, they would signal and the whaling boats would head out to sea to catch it. It was a steep climb but well worth it as the views from on top of The Bluff were truly magnificent.

The boys climbing the mountain

Back at camp we are really starting to embrace the grey nomad culture as we were invited to play bocce. Fantastic game. After dinner we had a relatively early night and a well earned rest.

Fierce competitors in the Victor Harbor Bocce Open

Victor Harbor would be one of the nicest places I have seen so far. Very impressive

Next stop, south to Coorong national park

Adelaide - Goolwa Stop Press

Coming home from our anniversary dinner, just when we thought the day could not get any better and we were thinking " gee it would be lovely to hear from the guys in our bible study home group", they called us to say g'day and I am paraphrasing , to say we miss you Burton family and your wonderful sense of humour, your razor sharp wit, extraordinary company and tremendous support and good looks. And that capped off a perfect day

Adelaide - Goolwa

Well folks Fiona is a little tired so I have come off the bench to tell you about the rest of our adventures in Adelaide and Goolwa, the mouth of the Murray.
On our last day in Adelaide, we spent the morning down in Glenelg with my cousin Jenny. The kids had some fun at a fun park and water slide park called the Beach House.

After all the fun, it was time to catch a tram at Glenelg as the kids had never been on one

We all headed into the city for some final sightseeing. We revisited St Peters Cathedral which is next to Adelaide Oval. It is a beautiful church that Fiona has some history with which would take too long to tell. Ask her about it when you next see her.

Then we headed down to the festival area and the River Torrens. I have to say it was glorious down by the banks of the river.

I remembered my junior days at the Memorial Drive tennis centre watching the next generation in action. While sadly the centre court is now hardcourt, all the back courts are still grass and they were all full with tennis players. Fantastic to see!

And I could not keep Fiona away from the Victor Richardson Gates at the Adelaide Oval

After this we headed back to the caravan park for a restful evening.

I have got to say this, I give our stay in Adelaide and the West Beach Caravan Park a 10 out of 10. I could live here, maybe. Also the kids really enjoyed visiting their cousin Jenny for the first time.

In the morning we headed south through the Mclaren Vale wine country to the coastal town of Goolwa, famous for where the mighty Murray River finishes its 2000 km journey into the Southern Ocean. We all recognised the poignancy of this significant geographical moment and the emotional investment we had attached to this river. On our journey we met the Murray for the first time at Corowa NSW. We followed it and rode it though Tocumwal, Deniliquin, Mathoura, Echuca, Swan Hill, Mildura and a host of smaller towns and then left it at Renmark SA by heading north to the Flinders Ranges.  Here we are now reunited with it at Goolwa  at the end of its journey and so we farewelled it.

We also passed over the infamous Hindmarsh Island bridge where Fiona and Georgia engaged in some secret womens business

That evening, Fiona and I celebrated our 19th year anniversary and can I say they have been the happiest and most fulfilling 19 years of my life. We marked the occasion with a romantic and intimate dinner with just the 4 of us!

After 6 weeks we really are starting to look different from when we left Sydney. Also we are still meeting lots of German tourists and lots of people who lived in Sydney once and are now living in these towns we are going through.

Next stop Victor Harbour.