Before I get started on Robe, better catch up on the past two days. We were planning to head to Robe directly from Coorong National Park but the weather closed in. Our thinking was that we could visit Naracoorte as its main attraction was underground and return to the coast a day or so later when the weather lifted. On the way we passed through Kingston. It has a big lobster - a bigger than expected lobster. When the lobster designer sent the plans to the artist/constructionist, the measurements were interpreted incorrectly. The original plans were in feet and the artist mistook them for metres. This crustacean is a whopper!
Naracoorte is a charming farming community on the main highway from Adelaide to Mt Gambier. It is only 20kms west of the Victorian border and a similar distance north of the Coonawarra wine region. In the mid 1800's a fellow discovered these limestone caves while looking for bat guano. There wasn't too many bats, but the caves had interesting limestone formations that he felt might attract visitors. In all honesty, Jenolan caves are far more spectacular but nevertheless, the caves were open to the public on and off for over 100 years and were gazetted as a national park in 1917. It wasn't until the early 1990's that a couple of cavers decided to explore a very small opening at the back of one of the caves. The opening was about 30cm by 15cm. Why anyone should decide to push through is beyond me, however they did. Beyond the opening was a further cave with one of the richest deposits of fauna fossils ever discovered in Australia. One of the cavers happened to be a Paleo and immediately recognised the significance of their find. Several species of extinct mega fauna have been identified and research continues to find more. Apparently a very long time ago the cave had a smallish opening on the ground above and animals would fall into the hole, not be able to get out and eventually die. This happened for a few thousand years and left a massive pile of bones for which Paleos are over the moon about.
We visited three different caves but Victoria fossil cave was the best. It looked like something Indiana Jones would muck about in.
We also visited the bat caves. Or rather, we sat near the opening of the bat cave waiting for them to swirl out just like in the Indiana Jones movies. Unfortunately it was nowhere near as spectacular but one bat did nearly smack into Rod. The good news is that two geeky types turned up to record the bat numbers. They had a laptop, a camera (which they proudly told us NASA once used to track missiles?) and a program that counted the bat numbers. They kindly filled us in on lots of good information. Apparently an American fulbright scholar turned up a few years back and set up a monitoring program, published a few papers and then left the local to get on with it. Loving those geeky bat counting girls.
We stayed at the Naracoorte showgrounds. When not being used for agricultural displays, the showgrounds are open for budget travellers to camp. At least there are flush toilets and hot showers.
It proved a very relaxing spot and instead of falling asleep to the sound of waves or wind, we drifted off to the lowing of cattle. The customary game of cricket was played out under a magnificent sunset. That evening, Rod and I had a cup of tea sitting under a spectacular night sky. Full moon with clouds drifting by and dazzling stars.
Sunday found us at the local Presbyterian church. They call Adelaide the city of churches, but the whole state is full of these huge, historic stone buildings. We were welcomed and stayed for a lovely cup of tea afterwards. Mercifully, we were not confused with a vagrant family.
The weather cleared as expected and we turned west towards the coast once more. Robe is a quaint seaside place and its most significant feature is the local coffee roaster. Well, far as I am concerned. We found Mahalia coffee in a back street and enjoyed a fine brew. No long drop award today.
Later we explored the coastline. It is rocky and hazardous but quite interesting - starting to look a bit Great Ocean Road-ish. The water is almost a fluorescent blue-green. The bay Robe is nestled on is quite shallow with a sandy/limestone floor giving the water a lovely translucence. I wish I had a filter on the camera lens to pick it up - the pictures do not do it justice. As with most of the SA coast, ships have dashed themselves to pieces here also. There is a memorial to ships and one for fisherman lost at sea with far too many names upon them. I was afraid to go near the water!
We also needed to do a few running repairs. Six weeks on the road has seen some small equipment failures but a trip to the hardware and the local marine/camping workshop saw us shipshape once more. I must publicly thank the boys from Robe Auto Marine. Instead of selling me some lubricant for the towball and jockey wheel, the young apprentice simply came out with a gob of grease on his forefinger and smeared it over the towball. When I got back to the park, I wiped off the excess and smeared it on the jockey wheel. Done.
We have noticed a change in the clientele at the van parks. The nomads are starting to drift home for Christmas and a few more families getting an early start on the holidays are appearing. It will get very busy in Victoria in the next week or two and we will have to plan more carefully, staying clear of the popular beachside spots.
Next stop is Mt Gambier and then we say goodbye to SA and tackle the Great Ocean Road before the Victorians break for school holidays.
Congratulations on your CPA Rodney. It should come in very handy in the bush. Well marginally less handy than in the city. What have you planned for the next six years?
ReplyDeleteGeorgia congratulations on being officially enrolled in Cheltenham girls, and remember no stories about being poor and homeless.
Anyway we look forward to further entries on your journey.