Grampian National Park

Rod has filled you in on our stopover at Stawell. I think he was a bit harsh on the place simply because the shops were shut on a Sunday afternoon.

Stawell is hurting a bit. The only real industry is a goldmine.  It’s an underground mine at the moment however a proposal exists for it to become open cut that will apparently reduce the workforce required.  It is on the Western Highway, but that doesn’t guarantee a lot of passing trade and the somewhat famous footrace only happens once a year.  The fact that it is about 20 minutes from Halls Gap in the Grampian National Park is probably its last redeeming feature.   In fact, thats the main reason we stayed there.

As I have mentioned before, The Victorian Government has recently changed the way it manages camping in the National Parks.  One is required to book ahead and the fees have increased markedly. The first quote we had for a camp site was $36 per night. For that you get a square of cleared dirt and access to a pit dunny. Hmmmm. 

We looked up wikicamps to see what else was on offer and found a caravan park a few kms out of Stawell. It had terrible online reviews so we were a bit wary. But it was cheap - $38 per night, all it had to have was more than a pit toilet and it would be a front runner.

The caravan park was run down and had not been refurbished since about 1976.  The whole place was on the side of a gentle hill, so every site was uneven to some degree and there were a few suspect characters wandering around.  However, it had hot showers and a pool – just what you need after a hard days bushwalking. We checked in for one night and ended up staying two.

We happened upon a site that was at least level at the axels, made friends with the suspect characters, ended up with terrific neighbours and spent two afternoons in the pool. Sometimes you just need to take a risk.

Speaking of suspect looking folk, Rodney is now looking quite odd with long hair.  I was gazing away at him yesterday and decided he was looking perilously similar to Benny from ABBA. The keyboard player with the beard.  Rod keeps fiddling with his hair and it is driving us all crazy. I have suggested he cut it but he feels that would be a defeat. I feel it would be sensible but am in no position to criticize. My hair is equally laughable and I have taken to wearing a hat – everywhere.  I might try to find some scarves.

I am supposed to be blogging about the Grampians but fear I cannot pen words eloquent enough. They are truly magnificent and hope the pics give you some idea. We have been on several walks and lookouts and enjoyed them all.  To view Mackenzie falls (named after Major Mitchell’s best mate, Captain Mackenzie) one must descend 200 steps.  I didn’t count them but it felt like a whole lot more, and then of course you must climb back up them.  It was worth every one.

Cooling off with a Mackenzie foot spa

 Boroka Lookout was breathtaking and the “Balconies” reminded me of the Blue Mountains, but without the blue gums.

The highlight was the Pinnacles. To reach them you go through the uniquely named “Grand Canyon” which is about 100m deep at best. It is still impressive though, as you get to climb some very steep narrow sections. Georgia loved it. She is very fond of a bit of rock climbing and was hopping about like a mountain goat. 

I wish I had more information about the rock formations and how it all came to be.  The info centre and National Parks office had lots of displays regarding the traditional owners and the dreamtime stories but nothing on the geology.   I have no wifi nor phone service so I can’t Google it (am writing this offline).  However, the National Parks office did tell us of a campsite in the park that was considerably cheaper.  Local knowledge face to face is a must in this business.

So we find ourselves at Wannons Crossing campsite.  For $12.30 we have a cleared space, a picnic table, a fire pit ( sadly total fire ban came into effect today) and a pit loo.  The campsite is very good. It is well laid out and signposted, has easy access and large level sites with no overhanging branches.  The wind is still following us around so we are giving big trees a wide berth.

We easily slipped into bush camping mode and enjoyed the simple pleasures in life like baked beans on toast and a ripping card game, complete with cheating and at least one person getting in a sook. Tonight, I am ashamed to say, it was me. But only after blatant collusion stymied my victory. I was then mercilessly pilloried for throwing a “neddy”.   Rather due to good luck than good management, the Jayco is very self-sufficient. The 12 volt battery works a charm and we have light, the fridge runs on gas as does the stove to heat up the beans and boil the kettle. We have onboard 40 litres of water (with room for more if needed) and a well-stocked pantry. Who needs anything else?

Tonight we will sleep well. We have put up the bed flys to manage any rain or wind and will not have the freight trucks hawing past as we did in Stawell.  At first Rod and I could not work out why on earth so many trucks were tearing by, then a look at the map showed that the Western highway is probably the most direct route between Adelaide and Melbourne. Not so here. We are about 20 km north of Dunkeld  and 40 km south of Halls Gap off a road that don’t go anywhere else much.  Bliss.

Our itinery for the next two weeks is very fluid. We are booked on the Spirit of Tasmania ex Melbourne on December 29^th. Until then, we plan to avoid the Victorian coast as it is getting busy and the park prices are now in high season. We will take this opportunity to see a few of the more remote places and give our tourist dollars to some of the north west regions hit by drought.  At the moment we have no idea where Christmas will be, but Lord willing, we will have a happy time regardless.

Thanks for reading !