South Australia is flat. It is just a big slab of desert
with a few ranges scattered amongst broad low flat plains. The ranges themselves are really just a
mildly successful attempt to interrupt the plains. The Flinders Ranges, while stunning, did not
soar into the big skies. Mount Remarkable was not named for its height. The
children climbed Mount Wudinna in about 15 minutes. It’s a cyclists paradise.
And it is desert. Endless stretches of low saltbush and
sandy soil. Outcrops of red granite,
once rich in copper and iron and even a smack of gold. Nowadays the plains are
covered in wheat; it is really the only crop that would thrive with the low rainfall.
Most of the mines are gone, except for Whyalla.
Rod tells me SA is not a wealthy state. Apparently from a
fiscal perspective, it rates little better than Tasmania. Many of the towns we
have passed through only exist because they have a dozen wheat silos and a
railhead. Many more are just a memory with a lone dwelling and perhaps a joint
that supplies fuel, milk and alcohol.
Clearly, the Eyre and Yorke peninsulas once thrived. I have
really enjoyed the architecture of these towns and
when I am able to pry the camera from my husband’s hands I like to photograph
them. The residents have had the
foresight to ensure that many building from the turn of last century or the
early 20th century survived.
Those that have surged ahead have had the fortune of a deep shipping port
or tapped into a secondary industry like tourism or tuna.
We stopped at a little hamlet called Port Germain. No idea
why the place is still there, but it does have the longest timber jetty in the
southern hemisphere. It was 1.6 km long, but I think a bit fell off the end
because it is only about 1.5 today. Of course it shipped out grain in the days
before the supertankers moved it. The tides on Spencer gulf a quite drastic, so
you would need a really long jetty so the ships don’t fall over every 12 hours.
Does anyone have any idea what the above is ? It was sitting next to the long jetty and I couldn't find any information regarding it's purpose. I will publish the most creative or plausible suggestion.
At the moment we are staying on the copper coast, past of
the western side of the Yorke Peninsula, or “YP” to the locals. It is nicknamed
“Little Cornwall” due to its mining past. Copper was mined and smelted very
successfully in the late 1800’s until the 1930’s. Many Cornish and Welsh
immigrants were brought to the area as a much needed skilled workforce.
Two little copper miners
We have found a beautiful spot right on the bay at a place
called Moonta. It’s a real gem and being only 160km from Adelaide, the town has
managed to position itself as a weekend getaway, seachange or even retirement
destination. Rod nor I have no idea how
such a place supports it’s healthy and evidently growing population, but there
it is.
View from my Moonta bedroom window
I know all of the above because I read the historical
information. The rest of the family, however, do not seem to care. The mere mention
of a self-guided historical walk about town produces cold sweats. If I even
dare to suggest we visit the local heritage museum, all three of them flee in
horror.
The children are moths to flame if we see a bakery or a
skate park. Rod is inexplicably drawn to the local Golf Club (every town seems
to have one – even the towns that are barely towns) As for me, I am working on my thong tan (let
me be clear people, we are talking about a tan on my foot) and the quest for
clean underwear.
Just an aside on laundry matters. None of the cloths we have
brought with us will survive. Firstly,
because we only bought a handful of outfits each and the rotation rate is so
high. Secondly, no one brought pyjamas and it is cold at night so we sleep in
our cloths. Lastly, when we do get to wash, it is in industrial strength Laundromat
style machines – absolutely brutal. We will be in shredded rags by January.
Watch the pictures folks, it could get nasty.
Anyway, it’s getting late and we need to be up early tomorrow,
it’s moving day. Off to Innes National Park at the foot of the YP for a few
days bush camping
Sunset of the day taken from the front door of the van.
The Methodist church in Moonta. Just one of the many stunning historical buildings about town,
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